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Jezza-g40

Polo GTI Xenon conversion to Rallye Headlight

5 posts in this topic

Got some very good help off steve and thought i would do a little write up on how i did it. 

 

This is how i did it and if you follow my actions, dont blame me for any breakages that might occur if you carry out this conversion.

 

 

What you need:

 

2 working polo xenons with ballast

1 5/6" hollow tube to allow M4 bolts to pass through and to be cut into 4x18mm pieces 

M4 bolts or screws and nuts

Washers

New wiring

Drill

Angle grinder or dremmel 

 

Please note that if you run a standard air box like myself that it will foul on the air box. I have had to take the airbox out and shift the box back further and secure it using tie wraps. It is pretty solid as well.

 

 

Remove the xenons from the polo headlight, all you need is the projectors, lenses, bulbs and ballast. The rest you can chuck away. Keep the water tight plug fitting and cut the wiring off to give you as much as possible to play with.

 

 

Remove the projectors etc from the rallye headlights. Undo the 3 small screws that hold the retaining plates and take off, then take out the plastic unit that houses the light assembly.

 

Once its off, either count turns or make a mark with a marker pen on the screw near the base of the projector before you fully unwind the 2 adjusters. This will help as the end. Make sure the projector has fully disengaged the 2 screws then remove.

 

Then very carefully, pop off the bracket that houses the white clip that secures to the plastic unit. Take some time and great care other wise you may crack or snap the little white clip. Its not the end of the world if you do though. I did to both of mine.

 

Once thats done you can simply take out the projector

 

Take off the top and lower brackets as that will be all you need for the polo xenons.

 

Now this is where you will need to start drilling and cutting to get these brackets to fit. 

 

The polo lense is just a little bit too big to fit into the plastic unit, so you will need to grind off a small amount to fit. Its really easy to do and start off by doing it bit by bit till you can get it in the unit as it would normally sit.

 

I marked what i needed and took roughly this much off

 

DSC_0302_zps81103ebb.jpg

 

Also its worth marking 2 other bits.

 

The bracket that has the adjuster screws go into wont fit into the existing holes, this will need to be cut in order to fit.

 

Hold the bracket up to the back of the projector, the same way how it came off the rallye one, and then you will see what you need to mark up.

 

Cant really see it to well but its circled in red:

 

Image001_zps1e144157.jpg

 

And this is what is should look like once you have cut them

 

Red - slits cut for the bracket

 

Green - so it fits in the unit 

 

Image003_zpsdf174adc.jpg

 

 

Once you have done that you can also drill out the holes. The ones you need to drill are the existing ones for the lense bolts. 

 

Check to ensure that it will fit into the unit

 

[url=http://s443.photobucket.com/user/jezza-3/media/DSC_0314_zps17c515ef.jpg.html]DSC_0314_zps17c515ef.jpg[/URL]

 

You can then put the bracket on and bolt it up and should look something like this

 

DSC_0309_zpsc9154249.jpg

 

DSC_0305_zps77a02c7e.jpg

 

I put a few washers to space it out slightly as i smoothed the back of where the drill broke through.

 

Next bit is to get the hollow tube, i was in mole farmers or something as found a grease gun metal tube replacement part, was about £2 for 2 tubes so i bought them and used it. Works really well. 

 

Cut them into, as equal as possible, 18mm lengths

 

[url=http://s443.photobucket.com/user/jezza-3/media/DSC_0301_zps65b9be89.jpg.html]DSC_0301_zps65b9be89.jpg[/URL]

 

These will be used for spacing out the final bracket

 

Assemble together a bolt, washer, the spacer you just made, another washer (optional), the bracket and then a nut.

 

Once you done that to both holes of the bracket you can then align this up with the 2 slots you cut out on the projector. Once align tighten them up and should be looking like this:

 

[url=http://s443.photobucket.com/user/jezza-3/media/DSC_0315_zpsc10d8152.jpg.html]DSC_0315_zpsc10d8152.jpg[/URL]

 

[url=http://s443.photobucket.com/user/jezza-3/media/DSC_0316_zps3b701cf8.jpg.html]DSC_0316_zps3b701cf8.jpg[/URL]

 

Cut the length of bolt not required as well.

 

And with both brackets fitted

 

[url=http://s443.photobucket.com/user/jezza-3/media/DSC_0317_zpsccd343a2.jpg.html]DSC_0317_zpsccd343a2.jpg[/URL]

 

 

Then lower the projector unit into the housing and you can see it looks tight

 

[url=http://s443.photobucket.com/user/jezza-3/media/DSC_0318_zps3fb49440.jpg.html]DSC_0318_zps3fb49440.jpg[/URL]

 

[url=http://s443.photobucket.com/user/jezza-3/media/DSC_0320_zps073ada16.jpg.html]DSC_0320_zps073ada16.jpg[/URL]

 

It is a little tight and i would recommend that you file away the brackets or re adjust them to fit better. Mine went in very tight and were hard to get back out. If you dont it will make it hard to adjust the light when they are fitted back in the headlight. Trust me i found out the hard way and now need to remove mine.

 

Once thats done and you can get them in easily, fit the plastic retainer from the bracket (if you havent broke it) into the holder in the unit, not onto the bracket itself. Its quite hard when its already in the bracket, plus if you have broke one little clip, i would advise to do what i said above as i did this with the clip fitted to the bracket and it would go in and nearly broke it again. 

 

Ok, you should have the projector all inside, and now the most important part:

 

 

MAKE SURE YOU FULLY WIND IN THE ADJUSTER SCREWS!!!!!

 

 

If you dont do this then you risk cracking the light itself! Wind them fully back as far as they will go and remember how many turns or that mark you made. That to me is a safety limit, if you can get it that far back then you shouldn't have problems.

 

Pop the complete unit into the headlight, carefully tighten the 3 screws for the retaining clips and once done should be like this

 

[url=http://s443.photobucket.com/user/jezza-3/media/DSC_0322_zps7b69af99.jpg.html]DSC_0322_zps7b69af99.jpg[/URL]

 

[url=http://s443.photobucket.com/user/jezza-3/media/DSC_0321_zpsff84a7b6.jpg.html]DSC_0321_zpsff84a7b6.jpg[/URL]

 

With the wiring, should be simply enough, for me it was brown to brown, yellow to yellow. 

 

Bear in mind that the fuse may be blown due to the xenons. I had to replace mine, and stuck a 30amp fuse in.

 

Also you may have to have the car running before they both come on. I get the n/s light on with just battery but have to have the engine running for a few sec's before they other one will light up. 

 

Much better than before

 

[url=http://s443.photobucket.com/user/jezza-3/media/DSC_0323_zps77a49388.jpg.html]DSC_0323_zps77a49388.jpg[/URL]

 

As you can see, my air box was temporally wedged out the way for this photo. 

 

I have put the ballast below and behind both lights. Nice fit next to the battery as well.

 

I think thats it.

 

Any questions please ask! 

 

James

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I.cut the original brown housing. cut.it about inch down and slotted the new reflector through and.bolted up

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On 03/03/2014 at 5:14 PM, Jezza-g40 said:

Got some very good help off steve and thought i would do a little write up on how i did it. 

 

This is how i did it and if you follow my actions, dont blame me for any breakages that might occur if you carry out this conversion.

 

 

What you need:

 

2 working polo xenons with ballast

1 5/6" hollow tube to allow M4 bolts to pass through and to be cut into 4x18mm pieces 

M4 bolts or screws and nuts

Washers

New wiring

Drill

Angle grinder or dremmel 

 

Please note that if you run a standard air box like myself that it will foul on the air box. I have had to take the airbox out and shift the box back further and secure it using tie wraps. It is pretty solid as well.

 

 

Remove the xenons from the polo headlight, all you need is the projectors, lenses, bulbs and ballast. The rest you can chuck away. Keep the water tight plug fitting and cut the wiring off to give you as much as possible to play with.

 

 

Remove the projectors etc from the rallye headlights. Undo the 3 small screws that hold the retaining plates and take off, then take out the plastic unit that houses the light assembly.

 

Once its off, either count turns or make a mark with a marker pen on the screw near the base of the projector before you fully unwind the 2 adjusters. This will help as the end. Make sure the projector has fully disengaged the 2 screws then remove.

 

Then very carefully, pop off the bracket that houses the white clip that secures to the plastic unit. Take some time and great care other wise you may crack or snap the little white clip. Its not the end of the world if you do though. I did to both of mine.

 

Once thats done you can simply take out the projector

 

Take off the top and lower brackets as that will be all you need for the polo xenons.

 

Now this is where you will need to start drilling and cutting to get these brackets to fit. 

 

The polo lense is just a little bit too big to fit into the plastic unit, so you will need to grind off a small amount to fit. Its really easy to do and start off by doing it bit by bit till you can get it in the unit as it would normally sit.

 

I marked what i needed and took roughly this much off

 

DSC_0302_zps81103ebb.jpg

 

Also its worth marking 2 other bits.

 

The bracket that has the adjuster screws go into wont fit into the existing holes, this will need to be cut in order to fit.

 

Hold the bracket up to the back of the projector, the same way how it came off the rallye one, and then you will see what you need to mark up.

 

Cant really see it to well but its circled in red:

 

Image001_zps1e144157.jpg

 

And this is what is should look like once you have cut them

 

Red - slits cut for the bracket

 

Green - so it fits in the unit 

 

Image003_zpsdf174adc.jpg

 

 

Once you have done that you can also drill out the holes. The ones you need to drill are the existing ones for the lense bolts. 

 

Check to ensure that it will fit into the unit

 

DSC_0314_zps17c515ef.jpg

 

You can then put the bracket on and bolt it up and should look something like this

 

DSC_0309_zpsc9154249.jpg

 

DSC_0305_zps77a02c7e.jpg

 

I put a few washers to space it out slightly as i smoothed the back of where the drill broke through.

 

Next bit is to get the hollow tube, i was in mole farmers or something as found a grease gun metal tube replacement part, was about £2 for 2 tubes so i bought them and used it. Works really well. 

 

Cut them into, as equal as possible, 18mm lengths

 

DSC_0301_zps65b9be89.jpg

 

These will be used for spacing out the final bracket

 

Assemble together a bolt, washer, the spacer you just made, another washer (optional), the bracket and then a nut.

 

Once you done that to both holes of the bracket you can then align this up with the 2 slots you cut out on the projector. Once align tighten them up and should be looking like this:

 

DSC_0315_zpsc10d8152.jpg

 

DSC_0316_zps3b701cf8.jpg

 

Cut the length of bolt not required as well.

 

And with both brackets fitted

 

DSC_0317_zpsccd343a2.jpg

 

 

Then lower the projector unit into the housing and you can see it looks tight

 

DSC_0318_zps3fb49440.jpg

 

DSC_0320_zps073ada16.jpg

 

It is a little tight and i would recommend that you file away the brackets or re adjust them to fit better. Mine went in very tight and were hard to get back out. If you dont it will make it hard to adjust the light when they are fitted back in the headlight. Trust me i found out the hard way and now need to remove mine.

 

Once thats done and you can get them in easily, fit the plastic retainer from the bracket (if you havent broke it) into the holder in the unit, not onto the bracket itself. Its quite hard when its already in the bracket, plus if you have broke one little clip, i would advise to do what i said above as i did this with the clip fitted to the bracket and it would go in and nearly broke it again. 

 

Ok, you should have the projector all inside, and now the most important part:

 

 

MAKE SURE YOU FULLY WIND IN THE ADJUSTER SCREWS!!!!!

 

 

If you dont do this then you risk cracking the light itself! Wind them fully back as far as they will go and remember how many turns or that mark you made. That to me is a safety limit, if you can get it that far back then you shouldn't have problems.

 

Pop the complete unit into the headlight, carefully tighten the 3 screws for the retaining clips and once done should be like this

 

DSC_0322_zps7b69af99.jpg

 

DSC_0321_zpsff84a7b6.jpg

 

With the wiring, should be simply enough, for me it was brown to brown, yellow to yellow. 

 

Bear in mind that the fuse may be blown due to the xenons. I had to replace mine, and stuck a 30amp fuse in.

 

Also you may have to have the car running before they both come on. I get the n/s light on with just battery but have to have the engine running for a few sec's before they other one will light up. 

 

Much better than before

 

DSC_0323_zps77a49388.jpg

 

As you can see, my air box was temporally wedged out the way for this photo. 

 

I have put the ballast below and behind both lights. Nice fit next to the battery as well.

 

I think thats it.

 

Any questions please ask! 

 

James

Don't suppose you are still about are you James? About to do this myself, and since Photobucket decided they didn't like anyone anymore, I can't see any pics☹️. If you have some it would be great!

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