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DIY

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  1. Anyone knows the front and rear ABS sensors are interchangable on the Rallye? Its now the second time I bought one from ebay and it does not resemble the one that came of the car. The one on the car resembles identical to these like in the front http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/371890261224 But when i buy the ones for the rear ( http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/222354444280?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT they dont fit, they got that extra black thingy on the back of the sensor (slighty lager ) Should i just buy a set for the front and put them in the back. Would that work?
  2.   Thanks for your feedback.  I identified the redisch fluid, as you pointed out, as rust from the copper/cunifer stock brake lines.  The car was 10 years in storage so that accounts for that.  Good for pointingthat out though!   The part about the corrado vs rallye led me to some digging into the history of the car, contacting the previous owner learned me that back in the 90's the cars engine was swapped out for a heavily tuned G60 from a corrado.  The previous owner wanted some more "umpf" from a rallye, the  1H was ditched and a bored; stroked G60 from a doner was made ready and put in.  2 liter displacement now, fully balanced, flowed and puts out +220 bhp.  That accounts for me not finding any trace ofthat vacuum servo you describe.  Thats a good thing and a bad thing in one.  Its not an original matching number 1H engine :( but the one in is muc much powerfull then the G60 i remember driving bac in the "90's.  Good thing iis a corrado pump in a corrado engine should work.  I'm replacing al parts that havent been done now, I'm now doing to ABS sensors.  Ive got a feeling its an electronic thing.   For the ones that are interested in knowing everything there is to learn about the teves2 ABS if have found the bible about this piece of electromechanical engineering withc i will share here.
  3. DIY

    tie rods articulation

      correct answer Mike! cheers mate :)
  4. Evening gents,   I've got a question concerning the outer tie rods of my golf mk2 rallye.  I'm attempting to replace the outer tie rods of my mk2 golf rallye.  (attempting because they still stuck at the rod, damn these are stuck thight!  But thats not the reason of my inqury.   The OEM parts witch the car has left the factory in brussels so many years ago are in fact ball joints.  They allow 360 degrees articulation. My replacement parts, witch seem to be the correct replacement (outer dimensions seem identical and all) are not.  They are fixed at a 90 degree angle and are thereby no ball joints.  They look the same but they don't articulate in any way.  Is that normal? Did the engineers at VW, in there infinitie wisdom ;) , decided one day, that is better this way or am I missing something here?  This is wat I'm on about.  Borrowed an image from the old interweb, the green arrow is what I'm on about.  Thx for any advice!      
  5. Thanks man forthe advice.  The other day I gave your methode a go.  Got myself 2 fresh bottles of braking fluid, pressurize the system ( pressure bleeder on the reservoir) cracked one by one the nut fully open and pumped the brakes.  If its isn't bled now i don't know anymore.  I'm almost ready to admit my loss, agree with you all and toss that ABS system an go old skool with ( rebuilding to vacumm assisted brake servo).  After this - i lost count - disapointment, waste of time, effort, and money, i left the old g60 in the garage for 3 weeks again...   This still keeps haunting my mind, replaced all the goods, it should work... and then I remembered something strange that didn't strike me as that on the moment of bleeding.  When i was doing jofg60 thing, pumping the pedal whilst overpressuring the system a gush of red isch oil squirted on my garage floor.  ( yeah bitch bleed, bleed  :evil:  :evil:  i was thinking, lolz)    But wait ..... brake fluid is'nt supposed te be redisch .... what is .... ATF is .... gear box oil is .... hummm .... well i'm no schooled mechanic (otherwise i wouldn't ask here i guess ;) ) could ATF/gerbox oil or whatever travel to the back brake lines? Maybe its just some oxidation from stagenant oil in the old lines .... or the clutch cylinder is connected to the brake servo (thats where it gets its power from) .  Can it be that the slave cylinder (the one for the clutch ) is somehow broken and that its seeps up oil from the gearbox and that it gets sucked to the braking system?  Can that be possible?   I have no clutch problems, and oil level in the reserveroir keeps level after some testing.  My first thought was maybe there is my brake pressure going.  Maybe the pressurized oil is getting past the seals on the slave cylinder into the gearbox and thats why i'm having no brake assist on the first pedal push, but full on the second (after the electronic server pressurizes it again) for bout 5 seconds.  But then, according to that theory i should loose brake fluid.  Lots.  And what about that red isch tainted braking fluid that came out of the back caliper.  Related?  I'm stumped  :unsure:  :unsure:  
  6. agreed, thats why i need an will find the issue and correct it, its not that the system is so unreliable, is seems often likte that, because, imo, this is the most complex part of this car.  If you compare all the rest what happens under the hood, that other stuff like fuel system fe. thats peanuts.  This teves2 system is old skool electronics.  And when one component fails, the whole chain brakes, making it seem crap.  In addition wre so spoiled these these with the modern onboard diagnostics systems.  Ever since ODB2 weve become laizy.  PLug the car in the computer, replace the parts it shows on the screen.   for future reference when other DIY'ers would stumble on this topci, i'll answer it myself.  
  7. i found them, and will apply them next saturdday.  Breaking out the old fluke and curious what I'll come up with.  Thx for the advice though.   On antother note, while I was thinkin on it, when i was pressure bleading the whole system past weekend, i bled it till no air "bubbles" formed in my retainer at the caliper.  That being said, the oil that did came out the bleeding valve where i connected i tube to, was not contaminated with debris (in other words nice ,clean oil) it did not contain air bubles, but what it did contain was a lot tiny tiny tiny air 'mist".  Its hard to explain, but when cracking open the valve, and using the brake pedal to make even more pressure on the alreadyy pressure bled circuit, a 'cloudy' oil expelled from the system.  I assume these are micro air bubbles, i assumed they would do no harm + i could not remove .them anyway.  I'm hoping these have condensed during the last 6 days to bubbles and i will bleed the system again for the 1000 time.  . thx for the adivce, much appreciated
  8. agreed.  But the thing is ....I've never had the ABS work properly in the 10 years I owned this golf, so I do'nt miss it, and actually I don't care for it.  Having the braking system in healthy condition (good calipers, pads, fresh oil and what not + good and season appropriate tires ) made for my, in my past experiences, that the ABS never needed to kick in because the wheels just did'nt lock up.  This is of course, speaking for my "weekend warrior" tool.  The old "get to work and make some money to pay for the fun stuff" car needs and has ABS,ESP,TCS and a whole dictionary of traction control systems.   Swithing to old skool vacuum assisted is really the last resort ATM.  But I'm keeping it in mind as a backup plan.  Thx for the advice though!   appreciate it!    But having the brakes power assisted, thats what i'm looking for. 
  9. Thanks for your response.  Hard pedal: my advice, if you care for it ;) ... i'm afraid this sounds like the master brake cilinder completely shot.  Do you still hear the pump prime on ignition? Still got +12 volts at the power supply plug?  To my internet bases investigation, generally ( so non VAG specific speaking) the engineers usually design  (or designed for olders ones like ours ) to keep the system functional (in other words, power assisted, even when the electronics fail)     Removing and reverting to old skool vacuum assisted brake is the last restort for me.  I would like to keep it factory / OEM + I really really would like to keep the brake booster electronically boosted like on the ABS system.  Even without the antibrake locking system functional.  I've got a link to a technical article if you're interested in some bed time reading?  Its about old skool turbo / compressor charged VAG cars, like the audi urquattro. Apparantly the engineers opted for an electronically boosted system because the motor has troubles enough as it is holding a positive pressure in the plenums, and vacuum needs the opposit. ( as the name suggested ;)  )   On next saturday I've planned another "tool time day " for myself.  Will give the ABS troubleshoot guide that i found here a go, break out the old fluke multimeter, bleed the system again ( hoping that possible airbubbles 'condensed' into bubles during a week ( mine is not a daily driver, so its been sitting in the garage all week ) and see what i can come up with.  I'll keep your offer to buy your abs ecu certainly top of mind.  to be continued.... ;) 
  10. Related to my other thread related to ABS issues a question that has a right for a thread on its own:   Can we run the factory OEM Teves ABS unit found in G60 without electronics as a normal power assisted braking system?  I.e disconnect ABS ecu and ABS wheel sensors, will this system normally keep on working: obviously without ABS function or will it fail all together and fe provide no brake power assistance?
  11.   Hi guys   I'm struggeling here with the braking on my golf rallye.  Golf rallye ABS braking problems: first pedal push is soft and squicky, hardly any braking, second push it brakes good and hard. I replaced ALL the brake related parts execpt ABS ECU and ABS sensors.   Problems: 1. BIG problem.  When braking, the first brake pedal push doesn't do a lot.  Pedal feels squichy and you can push it easily to the floor without actually having much brake effect.  The second pedal push lets say 2 seconds later:  the system works like a charm an break violently as I would expect from a new G60 setup.  In a nice straight line, no ABS judder is to be felt so I'm doubting the ABS part is working although the wheels don't loose any tracktion nor do they lock up.   2. Car pulled to the right when braking => solved this today by replacing the rear brake bias valve.  It wasn't letting any fluid passed to one side.  But this is solved now. 3.  No ABS effect; whilst testing today, never had the ABS cicking in.  The car never did the "judder thing" when ABS systems kick in.  I don't mind so much about that.  I only care about problem 1 witch is huge.  I seem to need  to predict when I will be needing the brakes, to be able to "prime" the system by pusshing one time so I have brakes a second later.  Thats realy not how I want it.  Evry junction is a challence.  Hoping that there is no other traffic, with one hand grabbing the emergeny brake as backup :) :\     replaced:   front calipers front pads front rotors front hardline from caliper to braket where you connect the flex hose replaced flex hose by uprated flexibel steel reinfored once replaced back calipers replaced back pads replaced back rotors replaced back flex hydrolics by custom steel reinforced replaced the rear bias valve replaced the ABS unit by a second hand more recent one( build 1999 from a donor corrado G60 where it was scrapped assumingly in good order.     maintenanace done:   cleared all hardlines from any debris by airpressure bled the whole system with new oil by pressure bleeder.  used 4 liters total.  Each side was bled until one pint of oil was bled and no air bubbles or contaminations where to be found in the bled oil bleeding was done with the car on cinderblocks (you know ths bricks; reaaaaalll fun to crawl under the car to replaced the bias valve)  and the valve forced into the open mode by a temp steel wire. bleeding was done again today to check this time with motor running.  Still clean oil and no air to be found. No leaks detected: all joints, connections stay dry.  Brake fluid doesn't lower either so I assume no leaks?!? degreased the new disk and pads with a degreaser + used them  (the brakes) today violently (always to brake kicks one to "prime" second to get pulled to the front windsheeld ;) ) to get them really hot and maybe burn of any oil residu + brake in the new setup.   thoughts:   I thought I was facing a faulty ABS unit, to be more precsise I assumed the hydrolics where shot.  But now my 'new' pump behaves identical to the suspected fault one.  Could it be that its again a broken one as this was no new part but 10 years younger and assumably demounted in working order? The unit primes on ignition on ( you hear the buzzzzz sound and feel the pedal somewhat firming up. The unit adds pressure when bleeding when the motor is running so I really assume the electric pump is ok.   I cant think of anything more I can do :(((( adn read about every article on topic.  They all point to "bleed the system" but I'm confident it is more then perfect.  execpt   Could this be the result of a faulty ABS ECU?  What would happen if you disconnect the ABS ECU on good setup?  Would the braking act as a normal non ABS setup? or could that result in what I'm facing here?  The only 2 components left to swap out are the ECU and the ABS sensors.   To be honest I'm somewhat having second thoughts on having spend my time of work and holiday money on new kittt without desired result ( a car that fe stops at a junction :) ))   Help is appreciated :)