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Dubforce Crew
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About Henny

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  • Birthday 10/22/1915

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  • MSN henny@randomlogic.co.uk
  • Website URL http://
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Profile Information

  • Gender Male
  • Location SE Cheshire
  • Interests My Wife (Sharon), My Son (Zac), Our Dog (Loki), Beer (preferably Becks, Kronenbourg or pale ale), PCs (not the type that arrest you!), My '52 Golf GTI 180, My Wifes 58 Audi A3 Cabrio 2.0T

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  • Wheels 2002 Golf GTI 20VT 180bhp AJQ

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  1. how are you measuring the boost pressure? Where are you taking the feed for the boost gauge from? A G60 shouldn't be able to just "jump" in pressure like that, unless there's a problem with either your measuring method, or with the throttle body. Have you modified anything else on the car? eg. Is it still running the ISV? Any chance of a picture of the engine so we can see if there's something obviously not quite right?
  2. JMR certainly gets my vote.... Darren of G-werks fame used to work with/for John... John knows as much (if not more!) about G60s than anyone else I know of.... B)
  3. Lightened flywheel won't affect clutch choice, and shouldn't affect gearbox choice, any more than a standard flywheel would. All it does is allow the engine to spin up through the revs (and consequently back down again!) a bit quicker than standard... the only downside to this is that you may find it a little less smooth on idle (there's less inertia keeping the engine spinning smoothly) which can also mean that it may want to stall when coming to a stop, especially from highish revs... you soon get used to it though, and it does help! Unless you're thinking of going Turbo and silly power, a standard Corrado VR6 clutch (SACHS preferably!) will do perfectly for you, and is relatively cheap too... That's what I ran in my 250bhp Corrado G60 with no issues whatsoever.... :) There was a SEAT that had a cable version of the G60 box, so there is are parts available to convert a standard G60 box to cable change... As for the rod-change, I honestly don't know... as Golf G60s were cable change, it shouldn't be that much of a hassle swapping the rod change over to a cable change setup, which opens up using quite a few gearboxes for you.... (I think it's a CTN code box which is the sought after one, as it has good gear ratios for a modded G60 in a Golf or Corrado, then stick a TDI 5th in it for higher top speed and lower motorway cruising revs.... )
  4. My G60 had a CNC head, and it made one hell of a difference from the P&P head I had on it before... They are kinda expensive though, but if you're after getting every last bit of power out of your engine, it's the only way to go.... I do know that JMR used to do P&P headwork and got some good results.... probably worth giving John a ring if you decide that the CNC head option is too much... http://www.johnmitchellracing.co.uk/
  5. also, 83mm doesn't leave an awful lot of meat on the bores, especially as it's a forced induction engine..... 82.5 is a good overbore size for the 1H and PG blocks... :)
  6. If solder doesn't sort it, I'd go with some heated screen repair paint under it to make the electrical contact between the two, then a thin layer of araldite over the top of it to bond it back on and make it stay put....
  7. try changing the actual ignition switch... they're well known for being crap and giving up causing all sorts of weird and wonderful (not!) faults and problems.....
  8. where are you based? The guy I used has stopped doing it commercially and has gone to work for someone else (which is a shame, 'cos he was bloody good!)... Vince at Stealth Racing is very good and somewhat under-rated on here (he's well praised on The Corrado Forum), and there are several tuning guys on here that have got good reputations, although I've not used any of them.... :)
  9. G60s react very favorably to gas flowing and porting... it's easily the best way of getting more power out of them once they've been pulley'd and cam'd... Get the inlet manifold, throttle body and head well ported and flowed and you'll be making best use of the flow from the smaller pulley'd charger making optimum power... After that, a capacity increase to 1.9 is reasonably easy (overbore, KR rods and custom pistons) and will help with power too.... Whatever you do though, you really need a well written chip that's been custom coded for your car, preferably live mapped either on a set of rollers or on a road, to make sure that you're getting the optimum out of your setup.... :) To be fair, with the setup you already have, if you get it mapped properly, I'd bet that you're not going to be massively far off 220bhp...
  10. Welcome! Nice looking array of VWs your family has there... :)
  11. nope, it's the O ring on the pipe from the master output.... it's not leaking fluid from anywhere when you press the pedal, but it's pulling in a tiny bit of air when you release it... over time it's enough that you lose the pedal completely... Bleed it, and it comes good again.... With where the bleed nipple is in relation to the slave cylinder and where the air is in the system (between the bleed nipple and the master cylinder, not past the bleed into the slave) that's the only place it can be unless I have a duff new master cylinder.... I've got the parts to fix it, (sub £10!) but I haven't had chance to do it due to building work at our house at the moment taking priority.... It'll get done shortly and then it'll be up for sale.... :) Ta for the thoughts though... :)
  12. cheers for clearing that one up Slateford... :)
  13. I believe good MKIs are still pulling silly money... (annoying after I let mine go a few years ago for not a lot... :( ) I've no idea what a G60'd MKI would go for at the moment... it's been a while since I bought a car just for fun.... My current MKIV being a lot of fun was just a pleasant surprise after I picked it up reasonably cheap and then sorted out its issues..... :)
  14. Right, I need some help.... (yeah, yeah, I know that many, many people have said that about me in the past! :P ) My 2003 Golf GTI 180bhp 20VT has an issue with the clutch hydraulics which I'm failing to get my head around and solve. Back story: So, the standard MKIV clutch pedal break happened to my car about 8 months ago where the welds on the bent metal "box" on the pedal which actually presses the plunger on the master cylinder snaps off. I replaced the pedal and all the plastic bits and all was well and good again until about 2 months ago when the clutch pedal was pressed to the floor to change gear and didn't come back up again... Having read up and investigated it, the clutch master cylinder had failed and so was replaced... Apparently this is common after the pedal fails as when it goes it bends the plunger on the cylinder (mine was bent in all directions!!!) and this caused the seals to fail. I replaced the master cylinder with a brand new SACHS one and all was good for about 2 weeks when I noticed that the biting point was changing and getting lower and lower and the pedal felt spongy and just *wrong*... until at the end of a journey home, the pedal went to the floor without actually actuating the clutch. I checked the whole system through and couldn't find any signs of leaks, so I bled it (Gunsons easy bleed, pressurised at 20psi) and it bled a lot of air through... I'd read online that these can be a bit of a pig to bleed, so I rammed a litre of fluid through it and the fluid appeared well clear of air. Tested it and it worked well and felt better than it ever had, so I was happy and thought that I'd sorted it...... Problem: .....however, I now need to bleed the clutch hydraulics every 2 or 3 days of use as it keeps getting air in, meaning the pedal gets spongy, the biting point drops right down until the point where I the pedal doesn't actual activate the clutch.... Pumping the clutch 4 or 5 times (raising it with my foot!) will let you get it into gear when stationary, so the car can be moved, but obviously this isn't great. Sticking the easy bleed back on at 20psi shows no leaks and then bleeding out about 50ml of fluid will get rid of the air out of the system and get the clutch working fine again... once it's sorted, the car can be left unused and the pedal won't change, it's only when it's being used that it deteriorates.... :( Questions: So, the actual CLUTCH is fine, it's deffo the hydraulics that's wrong, so WTF is going on?! Where is the air getting in? The fluid level doesn't appear to be dropping AT ALL (marked it last bleed, and no visible change when it went wrong again), and there's no leaks of fluid visible? This is the 6 speed gearbox with the clutch slave cylinder INSIDE the bell housing (so it's a gearbox off job to change/inspect it!), however the bleed nipple is BEFORE the slave cylinder, so if it was the slave, surely it wouldn't pressure bleed so quickly? Anyone else ever come across this before? Please help!?
  15. Having owned two G60 Corrados and now having a 180bhp 20VT Golf4, which is better is an interesting question! The G60 has more "character" to drive than the 20VT as the power delivery and throttle response are more instant, but the overall output of the 20VT has impressed me over the last 18 months of owning it and if I was going to do another engine swap, it'd almost certainly be a 20VT over a G60.... It takes a slight change in driving style to get the same out of the 20VT as the G60, but the 20VT is definitely more reliable than the G60, more tune-able and almost certainly better for fuel economy.... This Golf I've currently got has converted me.... :)