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Henny last won the day on January 20 2016

Henny had the most liked content!

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About Henny

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  • Birthday 10/22/1915

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    SE Cheshire
  • Interests
    My Wife (Sharon), My Son (Zac), Our Dog (Loki), Beer (preferably Becks, Kronenbourg or pale ale), PCs (not the type that arrest you!), My '52 Golf GTI 180, My Wifes 58 Audi A3 Cabrio 2.0T

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  • Wheels
    2002 Golf GTI 20VT 180bhp AJQ

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  1. you need to count the number of teeth on both the supercharger pulley AND the crank pulley.... It's the ratio of those two that's the important bit and will give allow you to compare your setup with the standard belt setups... For reference, my toothed pulley setup worked out as the equivalent of a 69.8mm standard pulley setup...
  2. you mean anodising? (electrically coating the g-lader metal casing with a thin, protective coloured film) The question I would have is "why?"... or more specifically, "what is it you are hoping to get out of doing it?" If you are thinking about just doing the outside of the casing to make it look nice, yes, I think it could be very interesting, and I've never seen it done. Mine was powder-coated on the outside and looked great. you just have to make sure that none gets inside the G-lader! If you are thinking about doing the inside to make the surfaces smoother and so make the
  3. how are you measuring the boost pressure? Where are you taking the feed for the boost gauge from? A G60 shouldn't be able to just "jump" in pressure like that, unless there's a problem with either your measuring method, or with the throttle body. Have you modified anything else on the car? eg. Is it still running the ISV? Any chance of a picture of the engine so we can see if there's something obviously not quite right?
  4. JMR certainly gets my vote.... Darren of G-werks fame used to work with/for John... John knows as much (if not more!) about G60s than anyone else I know of.... B)
  5. Lightened flywheel won't affect clutch choice, and shouldn't affect gearbox choice, any more than a standard flywheel would. All it does is allow the engine to spin up through the revs (and consequently back down again!) a bit quicker than standard... the only downside to this is that you may find it a little less smooth on idle (there's less inertia keeping the engine spinning smoothly) which can also mean that it may want to stall when coming to a stop, especially from highish revs... you soon get used to it though, and it does help! Unless you're thinking of going Turbo and silly powe
  6. My G60 had a CNC head, and it made one hell of a difference from the P&P head I had on it before... They are kinda expensive though, but if you're after getting every last bit of power out of your engine, it's the only way to go.... I do know that JMR used to do P&P headwork and got some good results.... probably worth giving John a ring if you decide that the CNC head option is too much... http://www.johnmitchellracing.co.uk/
  7. also, 83mm doesn't leave an awful lot of meat on the bores, especially as it's a forced induction engine..... 82.5 is a good overbore size for the 1H and PG blocks... :)
  8. If solder doesn't sort it, I'd go with some heated screen repair paint under it to make the electrical contact between the two, then a thin layer of araldite over the top of it to bond it back on and make it stay put....
  9. Henny

    Golf mk2 auto

    try changing the actual ignition switch... they're well known for being crap and giving up causing all sorts of weird and wonderful (not!) faults and problems.....
  10. where are you based? The guy I used has stopped doing it commercially and has gone to work for someone else (which is a shame, 'cos he was bloody good!)... Vince at Stealth Racing is very good and somewhat under-rated on here (he's well praised on The Corrado Forum), and there are several tuning guys on here that have got good reputations, although I've not used any of them.... :)
  11. G60s react very favorably to gas flowing and porting... it's easily the best way of getting more power out of them once they've been pulley'd and cam'd... Get the inlet manifold, throttle body and head well ported and flowed and you'll be making best use of the flow from the smaller pulley'd charger making optimum power... After that, a capacity increase to 1.9 is reasonably easy (overbore, KR rods and custom pistons) and will help with power too.... Whatever you do though, you really need a well written chip that's been custom coded for your car, preferably live mapped either o
  12. Welcome! Nice looking array of VWs your family has there... :)
  13. nope, it's the O ring on the pipe from the master output.... it's not leaking fluid from anywhere when you press the pedal, but it's pulling in a tiny bit of air when you release it... over time it's enough that you lose the pedal completely... Bleed it, and it comes good again.... With where the bleed nipple is in relation to the slave cylinder and where the air is in the system (between the bleed nipple and the master cylinder, not past the bleed into the slave) that's the only place it can be unless I have a duff new master cylinder.... I've got the parts to fix it, (sub £10!) but
  14. cheers for clearing that one up Slateford... :)
  15. Henny

    G60 vs 1.8T

    I believe good MKIs are still pulling silly money... (annoying after I let mine go a few years ago for not a lot... :( ) I've no idea what a G60'd MKI would go for at the moment... it's been a while since I bought a car just for fun.... My current MKIV being a lot of fun was just a pleasant surprise after I picked it up reasonably cheap and then sorted out its issues..... :)
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