Welcome to DubForce.net

Register now to gain access to all of our features. Once registered and logged in, you will be able to contribute to this site by submitting your own content or replying to existing content. You'll be able to customize your profile, receive reputation points as a reward for submitting content, while also communicating with other members via your own private inbox, plus much more! This message will be removed once you have signed in.


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Community Reputation

4 Neutral

About dan86rallye

  • Rank
    Spooling Up
  • Birthday 06/26/1986

Profile Information

  • Gender Array
  • Location Array

Previous Fields

  • Wheels Array
  1. I was wondering if anyone is running the Porsche 996 boxster front calipers (with the 305mm Seat Cupra discs) and know which size master cylinders are required for the fronts for optimum performance?? On my Rallye, I have the Porsche 996 fronts with 305mm discs, a Tilton 600 series floor mount pedal box and Wilwood integral master cylinders - 0.75"(19.05mm) for 996 calipers on front and 0.7"(17.78mm) for G60 rears. My problem is, the braking performance is rubbish and quite frankly dangerous if I needed to do an emergency stop! I have tried adjusting the bias bar to no avail and have to push silly hard on the pedal that it feels like I'm going to either break something or pull a muscle, and that's just in normal traffic. Standard size MC for the boxster is 25.4mm iirc but I'm pretty sure that does front and rear brakes with a servo (not sure how that relates to pedal box setups when you segregate front and rears). I've seen other setups with 4 pot Wilwood calipers and master cylinders of the same or smaller size (remote reservoirs though) that work brilliantly even though a good bit of pedal pressure is still required. So maybe it just comes down to volume of fluid needed inside the calipers? As I'm sure the Wilwood calipers are more refined than the 996 older style Brembo units. Do I need a larger mc just for the front calipers i.e. 1"(25.4mm)? Are the integral mcs not as good as the ones with remote reservoirs? I don't know what the answer is so maybe someone with considerable knowledge or experience or both can help me out!? Please!?
  2. Does anyone know if this has been done successfully? I have been advised against it due to the process involving the whole thing being submerged in solution which means the gasket, bearing and joining faces cannot be masked off leaving you with huge amount of precision machining work to do to refit all the bearings etc and rebuild the box! It's giving me a headache, but I've seen chromed gearboxes so someone must know more or has done it before with minimal issues! Help appreciated!
  3. Is there a step by step guide on how to do the strip down??
  4. Obsolete from VW. Powerflex technical staff are all currently in the US on a business trip - typical. It's strange as the powerflex bushes fit nice if you fit them the wrong way round with the shoulder of the bushes in the centre but then by having no shoulder there's nothing to stop the beam from sliding up and down the bush so that won't work either 😡
  5. I can't seem to find any replacement bushes for the Rallye rear beam. The ones Powerflex have listed are only approx. 51mm in diameter where my beam has a 62mm hole. The guy before me had some solid aluminium ones made to get around this. Does anybody know where I could get some polybush ones?
  6. Thought he just polished not plated!!??
  7. Does anyone know someone they would recommend that can Chrome plate Aluminium (not chrome Powdercoat, aqua blasting BS), actual triple plated chrome? Looking to have my intake manifold and gearbox casing done, preferable in the East Anglia region but don't mind posting . . .
  8. Yeah I have read that that can be done. I want to get rid of the leads out of my bay though so want to use COPs. I've read that Audi/VW 2.0 TFSI ones fit pretty well with minimal machining to the rocker cover.
  9. I'm converting my 16vT Rallye from G60 management to standalone and therefore need/want to use coil packs. I originally thought 1.8T units would work and fit fine but after trying some from a TT (Bam) engine the rubber seals are too large and/or 16v rocker cover holes are too small. I've read RS4 coils can be used with a bit of machining to the rocker cover? (Surely any will fit with a bit of machining?) But, ideally I don't want them to be red! Just to make things more difficult . . . Has anyone done this recently and found other solutions? Thanks in advance!
  10. I called National Windscreens too, but they said they couldn't get hold of any! Idiots! No one asked me the cost of mine - all I had to pay was £90 excess on my insurance, would of been £238 +VAT otherwise
  11. Well, I doubt you will have a choice if you can even find one. I had mine fitted last Thursday, by Silvershield, last one in the country apparently. Think they mentioned their system was showing 3 in the US but god knows how much that would cost to ship over. Someone needs to start reproducing these cz it's a nightmare finding them! I will be listing my second hand screen on eBay but the plastic that attaches to the glass could not be saved as it was so brittle. If another one can be removed from the glass in one piece it may be salvageable. Rubber that pops into the plastic surround is good, though, glass is scratched and covered in marks and tiny chips, passed the mot though.
  12. Ok cheers, I will give them a call! Did it fit alright?
  13. Has anyone managed to source a bonded windscreen for the Rallye/G60 recently?? And if so, who from? I've asked my local windscreen company if they can find me one but they are still struggling after making several phone calls. Do National Windscreens still supply them? Any pointers? Thanks
  14. Explained above 🔝 I was missing a ground for the indicator loom, when I extended it and tidied the loom I put a new connector in for sidelight to spur off of, somehow had a ground going out but nothing going in so added a ground direct from bodywork to the sidelight connector, hey presto! Like you said, bad earths, or in my case no earth because I'm a tard occasionally, can do funny things! Confused to how it even worked at all and why it sucked all the voltage from the headlight. Least it works properly now. Thanks all for the advice!